Orgasmic Ice Cream

Now that I have your attention... 

On the Street: Bushman, Escape Man, and Elmo

Every city has its street performers. In Madison, it's mostly musicians, maybe an artist making some cool paintings with spray paint, and maybe and occasional poetry reader or other. In Chicago (at least during the winter downtown), I've also really only seen musicians, and mostly in the Red and Blue Line stations. San Francisco, however, has much nicer weather in the winter, and a much wider variety of performers downtown and in the other high-traffic areas, such as Fisherman's Wharf, and the cable car turnarounds where people are inevitably waiting in line.

So, a quick review of some fascinating performances I saw on my walkabout.

Lychee, Libations, and Locals

Circumstances found me in the arts district among very dressed-up San Franciscans headed to the symphony. Since they were headed toward the show, I figured the most convenient bar in the area must be clearing out. So, I walked in, plopped down, and waited.

Now, this was kind of a weird setup for a bar. About 6 seats at the head of the bar, backs to the lounge area which had lots of tables, and then on either side of the head and facing each other across the bartender's space was one seat on each side. So, as a single, I picked one of these seats. And after a few minutes of the bartender doing anything but attend to me or even acknowledge me, I tried to get her attention by asking for a menu. While I was just about ready to walk out, she saved the whole situation when she acknowledged that she had been ignoring me because she thought someone else was getting me a glass of wine - a miscommunication, she said, her fault, and so sorry what can I get you? This, of course, was the start of a beautiful friendship.

By the time I left a couple of hours later, we'd made fun of each other, taken a shot of whiskey together, and shared all kinds of stories, including several involving her regular customer, a BMW-driving residential lender father of 2 named "Christopher", who ended up taking the other single seat across from me. We did a lot of loud talking and shouting at each other while the main bar seats were empty, but by the end of it, I picked up my drink and walked over to have some more civilized conversation. It never ceases to amaze me how much other people are amazed by the life I've lived, how (as Christopher put it) it takes balls to just change course and do what you want. I still don't know that I think of myself as ballsy in that way, so I was humbled to hear this again from someone who sincerely believes it.

But what did I drink? A ginger sour that was strong and tasty. And a lychee martini that was on the happy hour menu (which ended at 8pm) that the bartender "Sarah" made up for me even though it was past Happy Hour. I just wanted something with a whole lychee in it, since I've never had anything except lychee candy before. I liked it. I also forgot to mention that I showed up for dessert and cocktails, and their bread pudding is definitely one I would order again. Bread pudding is a love-hate thing for me. Either it's life-changingly delicious, or I won't finish it. This one was so yummy, if plated in a very refined manner (I guess you need to cater to the symphony-opera-ballet folks).

Oh, and when I told my new friends for the night that I would be blogging about this, they kinda joked about having their names changed. So, just in case they weren't really joking, I've given them pseudonyms. Kinda fun, actually.

My lychee martini, me holding a lychee fruit, and "Christopher" in the background across the bar.

Sh*t San Franciscans See

I took a walkabout in the city today. These are some things I saw. Some things I saw and didn't photograph that you should know about... a dude getting beat up just a block off Market Street (bystanders kinda stepped in and the aggressor ran off); homeless people (there are a fair number of them in varying states of poverty); feces (human and canine); a dude walking down the street and, not missing a beat, picking up a half-smoked cig from the pavement, lighting it, and smoking it; dogs eating wet Alpo off the sidewalk right in front of Walgreens (because their owners were too lazy to feed them appropriately); smoke shops - lots and lots of smoke shops; and mating pigeons.

Best Non-Mexican Food in the Mission

Yamo. I love this hole-in-the-wall Burmese noodle joint so much, I ate here two meals in a row: dinner, then breakfast/lunch. Friends and I agree - the only thing you should ever order is the house noodles (we like them with chicken). You can try other things; we have. But you'll always regret not getting the house noodles. Trust us.

Spitters are Quitters

If you're into craft spirits - or if you're just into fun - and you're in the SF Bay Area, take a little drive under water to Alameda and visit St. George Spirits (often known in the Midwest as the distillers of the Hangar 1 label). You'll get onto Webster Street and go through what locals call "The Tube" to pass under the Oakland Inner Harbor and end up magically on Alameda Island. I say magically because the great arches bookending the tunnel say, respectively, "Oakland Portal" and "Alameda Portal". Pretty sure that means there's magic involved.

Thank You for Being a Friend

One of my sister's favorite shows of all-time is The Golden Girls. Possibly, it's at the very top of the list. I confess, I don't really know. My sister and I love each other; we have lived very far apart for the past 6 years; there are stretches of time where we don't talk much at all (can't say she's really much of a phone conversationalist); and there have been times when she's the first person I call about something deeply important. She's my sister. And somehow, in the years since we attended high school together 2 years apart, I haven't met a single friend of hers, save for the very serious men in her life. I don't believe saying a quick "Hey" to a roommate counts in this regard. Thus, on this trip, I told her that I'd really like to meet her friends, hang out, get to know them (and, perhaps by way of association, a little more about her).

The Bag: Keepin' it Classy in Oakland

When you spend most of your adult life in a different city than your sister, you don't get much chance to know the everyday aspects of her neighborhood, her friends, or her drinking habits. Sure, there's Facebook and its uncanny way of tempting you to check-in and post pictures while you're out on the town, but it's not quite the same as actually being there, sharing a beer, and listening to the other patrons tell stories and tease her.

Tasty Oakland-ish

I love food. I love to cook. I love to eat. And one of the many things that's wonderful about my sister is that she does too. My sister makes tasty food, and she knows about the tasty places in Oakland. And as we're mostly just hanging out and living together for a few days, we're doing a lot of eating at home, and a little outing here and there. So, without further fuss, I present to you a photographic journal of tasty things my sister and I consumed during my visit, mostly in Oakland.

Junk in the Trunk

There's a reason why I wanted a tiny car besides just cuteness and cost. Tiny cars are easier to park in the city. I've been bonding a lot with Sexy Lady, but man, she has a big booty. Fortunately, we know the owner of the car I've parked in here. Trust me; it's all good. Definitely an incentive to bike around here.

Loving Lake Merritt like a Local

Looking across Lake Merritt toward downtown Oakland

I almost didn't write this post because, to me, Lake Merritt isn't really a novelty anymore. During over 5 years of living in Oakland, my sister has always lived within walking distance of this rather large tidal lagoon, so other than my first visit (during which I was, in fact, pleasantly surprised to find a lake in the middle of what I imagined in my sheltered, Midwestern yuppie mind was a gangsta's paradise), I have hardly thought it as a particularly touristy thing. Especially since the locals are always hanging out there. And by hanging out, I mean sitting on benches, strolling with friends, lounging on the grass, boating (although not in the winter), bird watching, and exercising. It's an easy 3.1 miles around the lake, beautifully maintained, mostly paved, and so I thought I'd make like a local and have a bit of exercise. In my opinion, 3.1 miles of anything = exercise. I mean, that's 5k of running, biking, swimming, or maybe even cartwheeling. I was, um, walking. But sort of vigorously...

Anyway, it is the best place to people-watch without looking like a tourist. Just keep walking.

Swinging Gibbons and Necking Camels

Some fun videos I captured at the Oakland Zoo.

Into the Oakland Jungle

I love zoos. But only good ones. Ones that focus on conservation rather than spectacle, that have happy animals in large habitats with plenty of fresh foods and interesting enrichment activities. Ones with engaged communities, active docents and zoo keepers, and plenty of educational signage that goes beyond encyclopedias to tell the story of these animals in this zoo. For those who doubt my enthusiasm for zoos - just ask me which happy zoos I've visited and what I liked best about each. There's a list, and I plan to keep adding to it. Also, if you love zoos and cute zoo babies, get the app and/or visit the Zooborns site. Also available for liking on FB, of course.

Enough propaganda. The Oakland Zoo. Worth visiting. Try and remember if it's a national holiday before you go if you want to park in the actual parking lot and avoid the most loud children. Or, go anyway, get a parking spot with a view, and be entertained by the stuff kids say at the zoo. Like a very energetic, "¡Hola, Pumba!" at the warthog exhibit. Just don't get trampled by 6-year olds.

Scenic Overlook, Indeed.

My Uncle Bud highly recommended this little detour as I drove into the Bay Area: As you approach the Golden Gate bridge on Highway 101 (which is, in fact, a bit past my target exit for 580 to Oakland), take the road before the toll and bear witness to the most beautiful view of the city from the scenic Marin Headlands. This only really works if it's a sunny day, of course. And you'd be hard-pressed to find many sunny days around here in the winter. But for some awesome reason, the weather has been smiling on my whole trip down the coast, and I haven't had a foggy day or a drop of rain since I left Portland.

Dogs, Brats, and Beer

Something funny about life: You can have every intention of focusing on wine and spirits while ignoring beer during your 3-week road trip, and yet...

Creekside Cafe

Everything about this place is simple and good. So I'll tip my hat to it in much the same way. The space is bright, lots of windows, cheery colors, and quirky kitsch in just the right amount. Small tables and a small counter, a white board listing the numerous daily specials. Also, a patio area for al fresco dining (seemed to be too cold for the locals this week).

Eggs Benedict served with breakfast potatoes at Creekside Cafe

Touring Secret Wineries with Tom

"Whazzaaaap!" Huge smile. Strong handshake. A hat obtained from a pool boy in Thailand. These are the signature introductory features of a Sonoma vineyard owner named Tom. Tom Evola. And I was going to let Tom drive me around in his pickup truck to some "secret" wineries in the Sonoma Valley for Day 2 of wine touring. Sweet.

Tom and Jaye, his "driver-in-training", at Grebennikoff

My Local Sicilian Family Restaurant

A few entries ago, I mentioned a couple I met at Meritage Martini Oyster Bar & Grille who were very excited to learn that I planned to dine at one of their favorite local restaurants, Mamma Tanino's, and they encouraged me to mention their names to the hostess/co-owner/chef's-wife, Kimberley. So, after my first day of wine touring on the shuttle, I headed to dinner early, eager for some hearty Italian comfort food and maybe some more people-watching.

The Midwest Descends upon Wine Country

There are several ways to tour wine country. From private limo or sedan to group shuttles to personal valets who will drive your own car around. And of course, you can always take yourself, but as a single traveler who likes to swirl and swallow, this did not seem like a wise idea for me. So I booked two tours, one for each of the full days I stayed in Sonoma.

My shuttle wine tour group and our guide, Steve (first on the left), at Petroni Vineyards.
Ever wonder who buys table statuary? Signore Petroni, that's who.

The Real Neighborhoods of Sonoma County

Having been to both Napa and Sonoma valleys at this point, I can say that these two famed wine country regions are indeed as romantic and inspiring in both summer and winter as every movie, Wine Spectator article, and travel blog would lead you to believe. And like any other tourist town swept up in its own legend, Sonoma has its public side and its lesser known nooks and crannies.