Deep Thoughts

Sunset at Carmel Beach

So this is probably more for me than anyone else, and feel free to skip if it someone else's personal reflection isn't your thing.

Silence

I've spent a fair amount of time on this trip in silence. Not just the kind of silence that is absent of radio, television, or other people talking. The kind of silence that entails minutes, hours, sometimes even whole days without me saying a single word. No expletives or humphs or "Go figure" sorts of comments to myself. Think about the last time you spent time in this kind of silence and how long it lasted, and whether you happened to have music or the TV on anyway. Think about it, and then consider how remarkable an experience like Refuge can be.

Wildlife in the Wild

Between hoofing it from the Monterey Bay Aquarium to the US Coast Guard pier just past the other end of Cannery Row and hiking around Point Lobos State Reserve today, I accumulated sightings of the following adorable things: sea lions, sea otters(!), and more harbor seals. And here's a tip about the pier in Monterey: Go at sunset when everyone else is headed for Lover's Point for the sunset. There's still plenty of sea lions about, and you won't have to fight through crowds to see them. Just a few local fishermen trying to cast their lines over the tall fence. And here's an admonishment if you're going to Point Lobos - suck it up and pay the $10 to park your car in the park instead of parking on the side of the highway and walking in (this is a favorite "tip" on Trip Advisor and Yelp). It's a really nice park, they'll comp you a really nice map, and park systems always need more money for conservation efforts. Don't be cheap!

Okay, let the cuteness commence!

Monterey Bay Aquarium

People go to the Monterey Bay Aquarium for kelp forest, for sea otters, for interactive touch pools where a nice aquarist approached and asked me, "Have you ever felt the armpit of a pink starfish? It's very soft." No, no I hadn't. Yes, yes it is. I was there for sea otters and was disappointed that the exhibit is under renovation until the spring. I did, however, get lucky on the observation deck and see - in the wild! - a sea otter pup nursing on its mother and also a raft of sea otters hanging out. And that was totally worth it. Also worth it: Jellies. I haven't been to as many aquariums as I have zoos, but The Open Sea section has by far the best jellies exhibit I've ever seen. And there was a special, somewhat psychedelic exhibit called "The Jellies Experience" which went into greater depth about these super-cool looking creatures. And had crazy funky music. And dancing jellies. I could watch jellies all day.

Monarchs and Tide Pools

It's my impression that tourists in this area focus so much on Monterey, Pebble Beach, and Carmel that they easily look over Pacific Grove, the town between Pebble Beach and Monterey. Oh, Verona WI: Forget "Hometown USA"; PG is known to those who read its welcome sign as "Butterfly Town USA". Bunches of migrating Monarch butterflies stopover in PG, and it's very easy to pay them a visit in the free Monarch Grove Sanctuary. I've never seen so many butterflies outside of a butterfly farm. Also free and beautiful in PG: Asilomar State Beach. This is the kind of beach I could explore all day long. And though the tide was still kind of high, I did manage to see some neat things without getting my feet wet.

Because Tiny Food is Cute and Spanish Ham is Tasty

A truer thing was never said.

"Women love tapas," my server Robert waxed poetically. "Women love tapas because..."

"Because they're tiny, and tiny food is cute, and women love cute tiny food," I finished for him. 

And I knew I'd picked the right place for dinner that night: Mundaka, a Spanish tapas restaurant (not just a place that serves small plates and calls them tapas). It's right next to Ody's and was recommended by a guy who works at Mundaka whom I met at Ody's. Pretty darn convenient (since I already knew where Ody's was); beautiful, warm ambiance; and the menu looked pretty tasty as I was seated and guided through some favorites by Robert. And then I saw Gabe bring out the ham.

Puppy Palooza

Carmel is well-known as one of the most dog-friendly towns in the country. And there are many, many dogs here. All sizes, all ages, owned by all kinds of people. And they all go down to Carmel Beach to run and cavort with each other off leash from daybreak to sunset. I wanted them all.

Happy Hour with Clint Eastwood's Sheep

Before entering the world of down-to-earth locals, I stepped onto the enchanted property known as Mission Ranch. Currently owned by Clint Eastwood, this historic property now functions as a resort and has a public restaurant looking out over beautiful pastoral views complete with a flock of Scottish Blackface sheep. Many of the diners chose to be inside, and those that were on the deck huddled close together underneath a forest of heat lamps, so I was able to take the prime sheep-watching table. It also had a great view of the sunset.

So Much for Secret in Carmel

As I wrote on Sunday, the past few days were supposed to go something like this: Drive from San Francisco to Carmel-by-the-Sea on Route 1, pass some pumpkin fields, mustard fields, artichoke fields (never seen one of these before!), get to know the town on foot, maybe drop into some yoga classes, hike, hang out at the beach... Well, this plan only works if you don't stop in the most local of all local bars in Carmel the night you get into town. But I was just stopping by Ody's Tavern do some low-key people-watching, not people-meeting...

So Impressionable

I apologize in advance to those of you back home who will inevitably hear me use some slang I've picked up on this trip, mostly in the Bay Area. In fact, some of it has already crept into my blogging in the guise of imitating my sister. But frankly, I'm very susceptible to picking up accents, catch phrases, and communication mannerisms.

Saturday in the Park

It was not the Fourth of July. But it was sunny, and all of the neighborhood around Mission High School was in Dolores Park. Well, maybe not all, but a really good statistical sampling representing the major types of subcultures and social groups of the Castro-Mission area. And puppies.

Just like in the Movies

Though I've been to San Francisco several times and spent my time doing various touristy things, I'd never taken the famed cable cars for a ride until this trip. Mostly worth it as a means of getting from here to there (in my case, from Powell and Market to Fisherman's Wharf and back again). But it can be incredibly scenic as well. The open air ride is nicer than sitting in a street car or bus, and it's fun to pass the other cars and wave. Fortunately, I was seated the whole time and could take pictures rather than hang on for dear life on the side of the car. My recommendation: Take the Powell and Mason car to get to the wharf, then return on the Powell and Hyde car. Also, on the Hyde car, you want to be on the left side in order to get the great view from the top of Lombard Street (the curvy street) and views of downtown and the bay.

Best. View. Ever.

One of the best things about staying with my friends in San Francisco is that I wake up to this sight every day. If I lived in this city, I'd be buying them out of this apartment and/or camping on the roof (which is, conveniently, accessible from their walk-out balcony). I fall in love with this city every single time I see this view. And night-time is my favorite. I could stand in the chilly January night all night long looking at this from the balcony.

One Afternoon, Four Restaurants

I supposed I could have titled this post "Going Down on 18th" or "Eating Out in the Castro"... but let's leave the cheeky puns to the Sit 'n' Spin and the Sausage Factory. This one time, in the Castro... I went out for an afternoon and stopped at four restaurants on my way to and from Dolores Park. Oh, and there was a pause for puppies in there too.

Miss Modesty: SF City Hall

If asked, I think most of us would say that the city hall buildings in any place we've ever lived could also have been mistaken for public libraries, municipal works buildings, maybe even a really nice bank. In smaller towns, the town hall is usually in the same building as another nearby township's seat of government, the fire station, and possibly even parks and rec. But this is San Francisco. You go, girl.

Retreating Like the Tide

I'm about to begin the true retreat part of this trip - a time when my cell phone is always on silent, when I send no texts, make no status updates, and write no blog entries. Oh, there will be posts, mind you; they've been written and scheduled already. Still wrapping up some tidbits on San Francisco, maybe a little filler about the trip in general. But for the next 3 days, I'll be hiding out in Carmel-by-the-Sea with like-minded tourists and celebrities, pretending I don't know a soul. I'll catch up on blogging after that, and then... then I'll be coming home.  

Eating and Drinking down Fisherman's Wharf

Where can you eat super-tasty San Francisco sourdough bread in the shape of tiny turtles, dine on fresh crab served to tourists in jeans by waiters in black bow ties while listening to a Dean Martin-esque rendition of Bon Jovi's It's My Life, and drink any of 85 beers from a long bar with over 40 taps? San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, of course.

Orgasmic Ice Cream

Now that I have your attention... 

On the Street: Bushman, Escape Man, and Elmo

Every city has its street performers. In Madison, it's mostly musicians, maybe an artist making some cool paintings with spray paint, and maybe and occasional poetry reader or other. In Chicago (at least during the winter downtown), I've also really only seen musicians, and mostly in the Red and Blue Line stations. San Francisco, however, has much nicer weather in the winter, and a much wider variety of performers downtown and in the other high-traffic areas, such as Fisherman's Wharf, and the cable car turnarounds where people are inevitably waiting in line.

So, a quick review of some fascinating performances I saw on my walkabout.

Lychee, Libations, and Locals

Circumstances found me in the arts district among very dressed-up San Franciscans headed to the symphony. Since they were headed toward the show, I figured the most convenient bar in the area must be clearing out. So, I walked in, plopped down, and waited.

Now, this was kind of a weird setup for a bar. About 6 seats at the head of the bar, backs to the lounge area which had lots of tables, and then on either side of the head and facing each other across the bartender's space was one seat on each side. So, as a single, I picked one of these seats. And after a few minutes of the bartender doing anything but attend to me or even acknowledge me, I tried to get her attention by asking for a menu. While I was just about ready to walk out, she saved the whole situation when she acknowledged that she had been ignoring me because she thought someone else was getting me a glass of wine - a miscommunication, she said, her fault, and so sorry what can I get you? This, of course, was the start of a beautiful friendship.

By the time I left a couple of hours later, we'd made fun of each other, taken a shot of whiskey together, and shared all kinds of stories, including several involving her regular customer, a BMW-driving residential lender father of 2 named "Christopher", who ended up taking the other single seat across from me. We did a lot of loud talking and shouting at each other while the main bar seats were empty, but by the end of it, I picked up my drink and walked over to have some more civilized conversation. It never ceases to amaze me how much other people are amazed by the life I've lived, how (as Christopher put it) it takes balls to just change course and do what you want. I still don't know that I think of myself as ballsy in that way, so I was humbled to hear this again from someone who sincerely believes it.

But what did I drink? A ginger sour that was strong and tasty. And a lychee martini that was on the happy hour menu (which ended at 8pm) that the bartender "Sarah" made up for me even though it was past Happy Hour. I just wanted something with a whole lychee in it, since I've never had anything except lychee candy before. I liked it. I also forgot to mention that I showed up for dessert and cocktails, and their bread pudding is definitely one I would order again. Bread pudding is a love-hate thing for me. Either it's life-changingly delicious, or I won't finish it. This one was so yummy, if plated in a very refined manner (I guess you need to cater to the symphony-opera-ballet folks).

Oh, and when I told my new friends for the night that I would be blogging about this, they kinda joked about having their names changed. So, just in case they weren't really joking, I've given them pseudonyms. Kinda fun, actually.

My lychee martini, me holding a lychee fruit, and "Christopher" in the background across the bar.

Sh*t San Franciscans See

I took a walkabout in the city today. These are some things I saw. Some things I saw and didn't photograph that you should know about... a dude getting beat up just a block off Market Street (bystanders kinda stepped in and the aggressor ran off); homeless people (there are a fair number of them in varying states of poverty); feces (human and canine); a dude walking down the street and, not missing a beat, picking up a half-smoked cig from the pavement, lighting it, and smoking it; dogs eating wet Alpo off the sidewalk right in front of Walgreens (because their owners were too lazy to feed them appropriately); smoke shops - lots and lots of smoke shops; and mating pigeons.

Best Non-Mexican Food in the Mission

Yamo. I love this hole-in-the-wall Burmese noodle joint so much, I ate here two meals in a row: dinner, then breakfast/lunch. Friends and I agree - the only thing you should ever order is the house noodles (we like them with chicken). You can try other things; we have. But you'll always regret not getting the house noodles. Trust us.

Spitters are Quitters

If you're into craft spirits - or if you're just into fun - and you're in the SF Bay Area, take a little drive under water to Alameda and visit St. George Spirits (often known in the Midwest as the distillers of the Hangar 1 label). You'll get onto Webster Street and go through what locals call "The Tube" to pass under the Oakland Inner Harbor and end up magically on Alameda Island. I say magically because the great arches bookending the tunnel say, respectively, "Oakland Portal" and "Alameda Portal". Pretty sure that means there's magic involved.

Thank You for Being a Friend

One of my sister's favorite shows of all-time is The Golden Girls. Possibly, it's at the very top of the list. I confess, I don't really know. My sister and I love each other; we have lived very far apart for the past 6 years; there are stretches of time where we don't talk much at all (can't say she's really much of a phone conversationalist); and there have been times when she's the first person I call about something deeply important. She's my sister. And somehow, in the years since we attended high school together 2 years apart, I haven't met a single friend of hers, save for the very serious men in her life. I don't believe saying a quick "Hey" to a roommate counts in this regard. Thus, on this trip, I told her that I'd really like to meet her friends, hang out, get to know them (and, perhaps by way of association, a little more about her).

The Bag: Keepin' it Classy in Oakland

When you spend most of your adult life in a different city than your sister, you don't get much chance to know the everyday aspects of her neighborhood, her friends, or her drinking habits. Sure, there's Facebook and its uncanny way of tempting you to check-in and post pictures while you're out on the town, but it's not quite the same as actually being there, sharing a beer, and listening to the other patrons tell stories and tease her.

Tasty Oakland-ish

I love food. I love to cook. I love to eat. And one of the many things that's wonderful about my sister is that she does too. My sister makes tasty food, and she knows about the tasty places in Oakland. And as we're mostly just hanging out and living together for a few days, we're doing a lot of eating at home, and a little outing here and there. So, without further fuss, I present to you a photographic journal of tasty things my sister and I consumed during my visit, mostly in Oakland.

Junk in the Trunk

There's a reason why I wanted a tiny car besides just cuteness and cost. Tiny cars are easier to park in the city. I've been bonding a lot with Sexy Lady, but man, she has a big booty. Fortunately, we know the owner of the car I've parked in here. Trust me; it's all good. Definitely an incentive to bike around here.

Loving Lake Merritt like a Local

Looking across Lake Merritt toward downtown Oakland

I almost didn't write this post because, to me, Lake Merritt isn't really a novelty anymore. During over 5 years of living in Oakland, my sister has always lived within walking distance of this rather large tidal lagoon, so other than my first visit (during which I was, in fact, pleasantly surprised to find a lake in the middle of what I imagined in my sheltered, Midwestern yuppie mind was a gangsta's paradise), I have hardly thought it as a particularly touristy thing. Especially since the locals are always hanging out there. And by hanging out, I mean sitting on benches, strolling with friends, lounging on the grass, boating (although not in the winter), bird watching, and exercising. It's an easy 3.1 miles around the lake, beautifully maintained, mostly paved, and so I thought I'd make like a local and have a bit of exercise. In my opinion, 3.1 miles of anything = exercise. I mean, that's 5k of running, biking, swimming, or maybe even cartwheeling. I was, um, walking. But sort of vigorously...

Anyway, it is the best place to people-watch without looking like a tourist. Just keep walking.

Swinging Gibbons and Necking Camels

Some fun videos I captured at the Oakland Zoo.

Into the Oakland Jungle

I love zoos. But only good ones. Ones that focus on conservation rather than spectacle, that have happy animals in large habitats with plenty of fresh foods and interesting enrichment activities. Ones with engaged communities, active docents and zoo keepers, and plenty of educational signage that goes beyond encyclopedias to tell the story of these animals in this zoo. For those who doubt my enthusiasm for zoos - just ask me which happy zoos I've visited and what I liked best about each. There's a list, and I plan to keep adding to it. Also, if you love zoos and cute zoo babies, get the app and/or visit the Zooborns site. Also available for liking on FB, of course.

Enough propaganda. The Oakland Zoo. Worth visiting. Try and remember if it's a national holiday before you go if you want to park in the actual parking lot and avoid the most loud children. Or, go anyway, get a parking spot with a view, and be entertained by the stuff kids say at the zoo. Like a very energetic, "¡Hola, Pumba!" at the warthog exhibit. Just don't get trampled by 6-year olds.

Scenic Overlook, Indeed.

My Uncle Bud highly recommended this little detour as I drove into the Bay Area: As you approach the Golden Gate bridge on Highway 101 (which is, in fact, a bit past my target exit for 580 to Oakland), take the road before the toll and bear witness to the most beautiful view of the city from the scenic Marin Headlands. This only really works if it's a sunny day, of course. And you'd be hard-pressed to find many sunny days around here in the winter. But for some awesome reason, the weather has been smiling on my whole trip down the coast, and I haven't had a foggy day or a drop of rain since I left Portland.

Dogs, Brats, and Beer

Something funny about life: You can have every intention of focusing on wine and spirits while ignoring beer during your 3-week road trip, and yet...

Creekside Cafe

Everything about this place is simple and good. So I'll tip my hat to it in much the same way. The space is bright, lots of windows, cheery colors, and quirky kitsch in just the right amount. Small tables and a small counter, a white board listing the numerous daily specials. Also, a patio area for al fresco dining (seemed to be too cold for the locals this week).

Eggs Benedict served with breakfast potatoes at Creekside Cafe

Touring Secret Wineries with Tom

"Whazzaaaap!" Huge smile. Strong handshake. A hat obtained from a pool boy in Thailand. These are the signature introductory features of a Sonoma vineyard owner named Tom. Tom Evola. And I was going to let Tom drive me around in his pickup truck to some "secret" wineries in the Sonoma Valley for Day 2 of wine touring. Sweet.

Tom and Jaye, his "driver-in-training", at Grebennikoff

My Local Sicilian Family Restaurant

A few entries ago, I mentioned a couple I met at Meritage Martini Oyster Bar & Grille who were very excited to learn that I planned to dine at one of their favorite local restaurants, Mamma Tanino's, and they encouraged me to mention their names to the hostess/co-owner/chef's-wife, Kimberley. So, after my first day of wine touring on the shuttle, I headed to dinner early, eager for some hearty Italian comfort food and maybe some more people-watching.

The Midwest Descends upon Wine Country

There are several ways to tour wine country. From private limo or sedan to group shuttles to personal valets who will drive your own car around. And of course, you can always take yourself, but as a single traveler who likes to swirl and swallow, this did not seem like a wise idea for me. So I booked two tours, one for each of the full days I stayed in Sonoma.

My shuttle wine tour group and our guide, Steve (first on the left), at Petroni Vineyards.
Ever wonder who buys table statuary? Signore Petroni, that's who.

The Real Neighborhoods of Sonoma County

Having been to both Napa and Sonoma valleys at this point, I can say that these two famed wine country regions are indeed as romantic and inspiring in both summer and winter as every movie, Wine Spectator article, and travel blog would lead you to believe. And like any other tourist town swept up in its own legend, Sonoma has its public side and its lesser known nooks and crannies.

Tonight's Specials: Fresh Oysters, Crab, and Locals

Best way to people watch in a small town or neighborhood? Eat dinner and hang around for a few drinks at a local bar. Make friends with the bartender, chat up the folks next to you. On the road without a DD, I haven't really taken advantage of the drinking much, but I can tell you that the money was otherwise well spent... on fresh local oysters on the half shell and in-season steamed Dungeness crab - perhaps the best reason to visit this region in the winter.

In the Heart of the Russian River Valley

Guerneville, self-proclaimed "Heart of the Russian River Valley" sits on Hwy 116, which is a scenic little road that follows the famed Russian River and will take you from Jenner (on the coast) to Sebastopol, where you can pick up Hwy 12 and skate right into Sonoma. On this highway, I saw snow still lingering in the never-sunny shadows of deep valleys, palm trees in the drive ways, cows on steep cliffsides, and this:

In front of the River Theater on Hwy 116 in Guerneville, CA

Nice Car...

As-yet to be named road trip vehicle
Roadside, US Highway 199
This could be used as a print ad, right? Call me, Mitsubishi.

Happy Cows on the Sonoma Coast

In Wisconsin, it's not uncommon to see deer crossing signs warning drivers that there may be some deer getting in your way down the road. Despite our love of dairy and dairy farming, however, you rarely see cow crossing signs. Mostly, they stay in fenced pastures, in barns, or make their way under the roads through culverts and underpasses. I think the only time I've seen cows crossing a road in Wisconsin is when they busted through a fence, and that wasn't supposed to happen. Cows cross roads in Montana, in Colorado - in ranch country. And, according to the signage, along Route 1 in Sonoma County. Still, I wasn't prepared for this...

Point Arena Lighthouse

Where can you see a piece of California history, a stark illustration of the erosive power of ocean waves, part of a set from a Mel Gibson movie, and spy cute, chubby harbor seals just hanging out? Only one place, people: The Point Arena Lighthouse. The only working lighthouse you can still ascend in this part of the country, next to the so-called "Devil's Punch Bowl" which is now just a few sort-of island/rocks off-shore, and once the set for Forever Young,starring Mel Gibson and Jamie Lee Curtis, this landmark is very easy to reach and totally worth the small fee to tour the museum and ascend the 145 steps to the top where you might see whales (I didn't) or harbor seals on nearby rocks (I did!).

Free Upgrade? Um... yes, please.

Wharf Master's Inn, Point Arena (in Arena Cove)

My last overnight on the road before setting up residence in Sonoma for a few days was in Point Arena. Yeah, I'd live there. If I didn't actually have to live there. Like, if I could live in the room I had at Wharf Master's Inn and eat crab fresh from the wharf each day... I'd stay forever. I arrived in the dark (and I don't recommend driving too much on Route 1 after sunset if you don't have to... I saw some deer and was nervous about the curves and potential elk). This wasn't a problem. I was promptly offered a free room upgrade. Also not a problem. And when I was told that room 122 Lookout was one of the best rooms, I smiled politely and nodded - anything was going to be better than the cheapest room I had booked (which only had a bathtub. And actually, I was thrilled, because at home I only have a shower and was excited for a real bath).

Beachcombing Arena Cove

Some cool things I found on the beach next to the fishing wharf in the cove at Point Arena. Lots of sea urchin shells, ocean-tumbled rocks, abalone shell pieces, and this crazy-ugly plant known as bull kelp. Also, a hillbilly park.

Point Arena Public Wharf

Bull kelp, washed ashore

Bull kelp root/bulb

Looking out from the beach I was combing toward the wharf and the north side of the cove

Piece of a shell. Ooh, shiny.

Some sea plant growing on a rock. At least it used to be growing, before it washed ashore.

Nature made a couple of holes in this beach rock. Neat.

Incidentally, the only structured activity in Hillbilly Park is horseshoes.

Sunset in Elk

I decided not to kill time in Mendocino before sunset. All the shops closed at 4 or 5, sunset wasn't scheduled until 5:16, and it was about 4:30. So I hit the road again and kept an eye on the clock. About 5:08, I started looking for good places to pull over for the show, but of course there weren't any. And the road was taking dips inland for a while which made me think that maybe I was going to miss my first opportunity for a Pacific sunset on this trip. Finally, just in time, I passed through this little town called Elk and found an access point to a hiking trail that took a quick jog to reach a fantastic point to watch the sun go down.

Elk, the town

Mendocino

Mendocino. Cute. Adorable. Like Galena, IL, but on the Pacific, not the Mississippi. Also, smaller than Galena. But just as cute and adorable. I stopped here on my way from Fortuna to my next stop-over in Point Arena. It was kind of late in the afternoon, and I was kind of on a mission to find a snack since the Tap House/Grill affiliated with North Coast Brewery in Fort Bragg (my original plan for second lunch) was closed. Found a fresh crab cake made with local Dungeness Crab at the Mendocino Market & Deli - big chunks of crab meat and some succulent veggies made it a good choice indeed. Then an unplanned hike to the beach area and some rocks. If I'd been more inclined to stop in the local shops, I could have easily killed an hour that way, but instead I climbed around some driftwood, looked in some tide pools, and debated whether to stay another 45 minutes to watch the sun set.

Mendocino, as seen from the beachy-area-point

Caution, Sexy Lady: Curves Ahead

The 101 is probably gorgeous in Oregon, but in northern California, it's a bit more inland and doesn't give you the great coastal views I am here to see. So, in a little town called Leggett, I met up with the storied California Route 1, known as the Pacific Coast Highway down south, and as the Shoreline Highway up here. And let me tell you: If you can't handle the first 22 miles of the 1 from Leggett to the sea, just turn around and take you and your sad little car home. And I thought 199 was fun. It was. This was just crazy.

But Sexy Lady isn't a sad little car...

Big-Ass Trees: Part 2

So, just south of Fortuna (one of my overnight points) lies an alternate scenic route to Route 101 - Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile section of old 101 that brings you much closer to nature than the modern freeway. Like, careful or you'll lose your mirrors on the big-ass trees closer-to-nature. But we've dealt with narrow roads and big trees before. Sexy Lady and me, that is (I've since named my car "Sexy Lady"... more on that later). And although I had kind of a late start by my road trip standards, the day was young, and I was all about taking on this tourist trap, especially since I was bound to be the only tourist around.

Food Porn-Vista-Food Porn Sandwich

Ladies and gentlemen: You are such a wonderful crowd, we'd like to post a little collage for you. It's one of my personal favorites, and I'd like to dedicate it to a young woman who doesn't think she's seen anything tasty today - Sandra B, this one's for you.

Big-Ass Trees: Part 1

This was the first big redwood that I saw near a spot to pull off the road so I could take a picture. I was very excited. I had no idea how it would feel to actually hike among these huge guys, but I was about to find out. And thanks to the magic of a camera timer and a tripod, you'll actually get some sense of scale here (I'm 5' 2.5", for the record). If you've never been, go. If you've been, go back when there's not so many damn people around. Hiking weather was perfect for a few lightweight trail-running jackets, neck and ear coverage. Reminded me of hiking in the Smokey Mountains in late March.

Somewhere along US Hwy 199 in the National Redwood Forest

Crab Fishing in Crescent City

I wasn't planning on doing much in Crescent City, my first coastal city. Grab some info on the local redwood forest (info stations in the park are closed this month), grab a bite, look at the ocean, move on. But after tooling around the big trees for a while, I became distracted be the prospect of a marine mammal rehab facility and set out to find that. Just east of Battery Point, my guide book says.



Maybe so. But I didn't see it, and I ended up walking out the pier at the point, taking pictures of the lighthouse, which is only accessible at low tide, and watching people fish for crab. Old men, young couples, a family with an adorable toddler, a middle-aged woman. Everyone and their brother was out crab fishing in the middle of a Monday. And one enterprising harbor seal was foiling them all.
My favorite guy: The 60-70ish man who said it was good for me to go hiking because it "keeps ya off the streets."

Battery Point, Crescent City, CA

Hungry, hungry harbor seal

Battery Point Lighthouse, Crescent City, CA

From OR to CA: $1.99

I chose to overnight in Grants Pass, OR so that I would have a fresh day to take on US Highway 199, an often narrow, curvy route that cuts through the Cascades and spends a good deal of its time in California winding along the Smith River. And as I spent the morning driving through redwood-covered hills, along steep drop-offs, and under rock fall areas, I patted myself on the back for that choice.

Rogue River, Grants Pass OR

Rogue River at sunset.
Building on the left is Taprock Northwest Grill (where I had dinner)

Beaver?

Nope - gotcha! 

This is a bear outside the bank next to Taprock Northwest Grill. 

Taprock loves bears.

Driving through Sheep Country

Sheep grazing along I-5 in Linn County, OR

When I set out from Portland in my not-as-cute-as-a-Chevy-Aveo Mitsubishi Gallant, I was looking forward to a 4-hour straight, easy interstate drive with little distraction except perhaps some beautiful mountain vistas. No one bothered to warn me that I was about to drive through Linn and Lane Counties which, by my observation, have the most sheep next to a highway anywhere ever (except perhaps Britain, but I've never been there).

Tasty Portland

I'm reluctant to leave behind the fabulous food scene in Portland, but I'm looking forward to wine country and the SF Bay Area which have never disappointed me. A quick review of everywhere I ate outside my cousin's house.

Hood River: Of Vistas, Wine, and Fuzzy Ponies

View of some mountains with names I can 't remember, also some interesting fruit tree trellis/support system

After visiting Multnomah Falls, my cousin and I drove a bit further east to a little town called Hood River, which has a scenic route around the area's many, many fruit farms and vineyards. Of course this route is called "the Fruit Loop". And of course there's not really anything to do in January around the Fruit Loop except visit the few tasting rooms that are open (many close for January) and look at the pretty scenery, perhaps see some alpacas, and maybe fuzzy ponies, if you're lucky.

Hoyt Arboretum and Multnomah Falls

Floating Around NW Portland

Portland, Day 2: In which I float in a space ship, taste a tree, and get "lost" in one of the most well-manicured arboretum trail systems and end up walking down a small mountain at dusk (don't worry, Mom - I had things well under control).

Bear?

Of course not. This is Portland. Where there are beavers. Everywhere.

Walking on Ice, Covered in Moss

I walked out the door this morning and promptly almost fell on my ass. Thin black ice was coating every surface, including and especially the surfaces used for walking. It's like we're skating out here, and all I can say is I'm thankful that Portland drivers don't seem to be particularly eager to score pedestrian points in the crosswalks, or I'd be toast.

Another thing I learned about Portland today while walking to breakfast in my cousin's super-cute neighborhood: It's covered in moss. I'm pretty sure the only things not covered in moss must move around. Like cars, well-used bicycles, and bus stop benches. Everything else - furry and green.

Juan

Welcome to Portland

The last time I was in Portland, OR, I spent a few days in the downtown Westin on the company dime, commuted to a work site outside the city, and hardly had a chance to really say that I had been to the city at all. This time, this time is going to be different. Grab the local light rail from the airport, eat locally, drink locally, and people-watch my heart out. And stay with my cousin and his partner in a super-cute neighborhood.


Step 1: Get a ticket for the MAX. Seems simple enough, but in a show of what I hope is not illustrative of my technical karma, the power went out at the airport just as I was contemplating which ticketing machine to use. Yeah. The power went out. At the airport. A noticeable number of seconds later, it flickered back on, but we all know how Windows-based kiosks love to be hard-rebooted like that. They hung on the boot screen for long enough that the Transit Security guy said, "Hey, just get on the train if you've gotta go. I'd get on the train." Yep. Free ride. And no one was going to stop us; the MAX is kind of an honor-system. Trust but validate. Have a validated ticket for your trip, just in case someone asks you, otherwise you'll get a ticket of another kind. In this particular case, we all got away with it. A whole $2.50 of a free ride. That I ended up paying anyway when I got downtown and bought a day pass for $5 to continue my adventures.

Step 2: Get a welcome beer (and some lunch!). Conveniently in the Pearl District: Rogue Distillery and Public House. Now, I know most of you are familiar with Rogue as an ale house (and they are), but they also have these nifty locations all around Oregon (and one in San Francisco) where you can eat good food and sample/drink their beers. And some of these locations also feature spirits distilled under the same brand. Sounds like a horrible idea, right? Well, after getting a burger recommendation and a sampling of about 8 or so beers with the guidance of Tyler from Philadelphia, I settled on the Saint Rogue Dry-Hopped Red to pair with the Kobe Beef Burger with Blue Cheese and Bacon. They're pretty big on Kobe beef on this menu. And while the cheese wasn't from Wisconsin, it was tasty and made from the milk of cows in the Rogue River valley who are fed the spent mash from the brewery. Incidentally the bacon was from Wisconsin (Nueske's).

Step 3: Watch (and meet) some people. So, at Rogue, I had a good chat with the bartender Tyler, also another staff member who was off the clock and bought me a shot of the Hazelnut-something Rum, and I was seated next to a guy named Matt who just moved out from New Jersey and talked indie movies, inappropriate jokes, beer, and bad surfer slang (right, bra?). He also very helpfully translated the bathroom labels. "Hops" = Men, "Barley" = Women. Not sure I was ever going to figure that one out... maybe Demeter, goddess of grain and harvest, but hops? I'll think about that one. And then at the MAX stop, I met a local Latino guy who was feeding the only pigeon in Portland bread pieces and chocolate. Juan loves chocolate. The guy named the pigeon Juan. Apparently, he's always alone and has one foot that is smaller than the other. Juan, that is.